Wow - we have just come back from a jam packed week in London. It's probably going to be a very long post to cover the highlights and offer my recommendations for anyone planning a trip to London.
Everyone was tired on Day 1, of course, since it was an overnight flight and sleeping was not easy. Definitely worth paying the premium on Transat to get bulkhead seats - lots of leg room. Our apart'hotel, Citidines, was excellently located, just seconds from Trafalgar Square, which was a great starting off point for our daily excursions. We spent most of the first day walking around the immediate neighbourhood to get the lay of the land. Needless to say, it was going to take us a few days to get properly oriented to the point where navigation was easy. More arguments than normal ensued over the next few days as we attempted to figure out the right direction and get our bearings. Every day we purchased a new map, hoping to find the one that would solve the mystery for us. Not sure if we finally found it on Day 5 (one with easy to read type, all streets marked, etc) or whether we had just been wandering around long enough to begin to get it ...............
Although most of the museums are free, we sprung for a 6 day London Pass, which provided access and fast pass to a number of the other exhibits. Also encourages you to stop in on some lesser known sites. The various exhibits are pricey and it can really add up so it was nice to be able to pay once and then forget about it ! We also picked up Oyster Cards, which really help to minimize the travel cost - they're easy to use and the fare is cheaper than single fare. The subway system is so easy to navigate and so comprehensive it doesn't make sense to travel any other way.
Day 2 was our first museum day. Started the day with a visit to the Science Museum - if you live in Toronto and have frequented the Ontario Science Centre then you don't really need to make this stop. Not much of interest to anyone older than 10.
Since we were in the vicinity we stopped in at the Victoria and Albert Museum, where we had a delicious and fresh lunch in the cafe - definitely recommend taking advantage of this self-serve style spot. We really enjoyed the Japan and Medieval and Renaissance exhibits. The ironwork display was fantastic.
Next stop was the Natural History Museum. We really loved it and would definitely go back to see it again. Pretty much wandered through all of the animal exhibits, from dinosaurs to whales to creepy crawlies (OK, we sped through this part). Despite living so close to the ROM, with its amazing dinosaur exhibit, we were impressed.
We ended the day with a trip on the London Eye, a huge cantilevered ferris wheel (with enclosed buckets that hold a group), that provides an amazing view of the city. A great way to appreciate the emerging new buildings and reflect on how they juxtapose with the older buildings - not very well, I'm sorry to say.
Day 3 was a gorgeous day, perfect for walking all over central London. We started off with a tour of Westminster Abbey. I'm not usually a fan of using headsets in museums, etc. but took one for this tour and it was really helpful - adding just the right amount of detail, but not becoming boring. Going early was a good idea as we avoided line-ups. Also good to pre-pay as this line was significantly shorter. London Pass gets you priority entry as well.
Made it to Buckingham Palace in time for the changing of the guard at 11:30. Quite a crowd were gathered however, it was somewhat anti-climactic. I wouldn't stress to get to see this if you don't happen to be in the area at the time. We wandered a little bit through St. James Park and were hoping to have lunch at the Inn on Park cafe, which I had read some great things about, but unfortunately that section of the park was closed due to an upcoming event.
Along our walk towards Victoria Station - the main train stations are so amazing - we stopped for a quick visit into the Royal Mews, to see the royal carriages, and the Queen's Gallery to catch an amazing da Vinci show.
Heading back from St. James Park, we stopped in at the Churchill War Rooms, which was a sobering and interesting experience. It was really interesting to explore the underground rooms that Churchill and his staff worked and lived in during the war.
On Day 4, the middle of our trip, we did the Harry Potter trek. Taking an underground, then overground trains, we traveled all the way out to Watford Junction to catch the shuttle bus to the Harry Potter Studio Tour. The sets, costumes and props were transferred to this location into two huge sound stages. We are all Harry Potter fans so this was a great stop and we were suitably impressed. I definitely recommend you include this in your plans but beware, tickets must be booked in advance online. You may want to choose the travel option with your ticket - while it is more expensive, it is less stressful than figuring out the timing and route by tube (ridiculous one way 90 pound cab fare was not on for us !), although this was part of the adventure that we enjoyed.
Taking the tube directly back to the Imperial War Museum, we had plenty of time to wander over the four floors. This is a very fascinating place, with a simulation of experiencing the blitz (OK, that part was a little hokey), some great warplanes, lots of artifacts and a very nice cafe. You can count on the museum cafes, no matter how small, to have some yummy cakes and scones !
Day 5 started off with a shopping trip at Covent Garden, with stops at Links of London (who were having a sale, no less - my hubby was surprised that I didn't buy more - isn't he a dream !) and Games Workshop for my son. We were both salivating over the prices, compared to those in Toronto - sigh.....
Enjoyed a little walking trip, trying to find our way amongst the streets. Have to say London was the most challenging of cities we have been in to find our bearings - the streets do not seem to follow a discernible pattern, twisting and turning, intersections with 6 lanes converging, traffic careening, cars and buses (lots of buses) seeming to come out of nowhere, no right of way for pedestrians ...
Spent the afternoon at the British Museum. Now that the shopping part of our trip was taken care of, it was much easier to get the kids into the museums. Interesting though, how we then couldn't get them out.
After the British Museum my daughter and I went on the hunt for the biggest toy store in London - Hamley's - while the boys went to the National Gallery. After she exhausted herself perusing all four floors, we met the boys at the National Gallery. I definitely recommend you squeeze this museum in as there are several famous paintings here. Our favourite gallery was the Impressionists. Awesome !
Day 6 and the pace picked up (as if we weren't busy enough yet !!). First off was a Thames River cruise to the Tower of London. I had allotted two hours for touring the tower but that was woefully inadequate. The tower wall tour alone was about an hour. Then there was the crown jewels, the Bloody Tower (all those lovely torture instruments).
Next stop was London Bridge, where we toured the gallery of Olympic posters. This show was really impressive, representing each of the modern Olympic sites. Great views as we passed over the Thames, with good photo ops, ending with a tour of the engine room and movie showing how the bridge is lifted - lots of fun for the budding engineer in the family.
Walking along the river, we made a little detour to the Winston Churchill's Britain at War Experience - this is a very quaint exhibit that seems to be maintained on a shoe string, but we enjoyed it. There were lots of artifacts showing what it was like in the days during the war and at the end was a little walkway through a bombed out area of the city. Somewhere along the way we lost our son, and had to send a search party back for him. At 6'6" tall, this doesn't happen very often.
I strongly recommend you do the tour of Shakespeare's Globe, a lovely open air theatre that only puts on Shakespeare plays. We were lucky enough to catch a rehearsal. That little snippet of a performance of "Taming of the Shrew" left us wishing we had planned better and booked a play (none playing this night). I'm told the restaurant attached to the theatre is very good so that would have been a nice way to end the day.
Last stop was the Tate Modern. We started with the most modern section, which astounded our children to no end - exclamations of "this is art?", "I could do this with my eyes closed!" etc. were topped off with our budding musician's exclamation that the collection was akin to "playing one note repeatedly and calling it a song". Fortunately, modern art was saved by the other collections (impressionists) and the Hirsch skull.
To end the day we had booked a window table, overlooking the Thames, for dinner at the Tate Modern Restaurant: Level 7. The kids were entertained by a dance troupe filming on the grounds below (some very bizarre dancing by young ladies dressed in varying costumes of shocking pink, no real choreography apparent), while my husband and I enjoyed a fabulous three course meal with wine pairings. This was one of the highlights of our trip!
By the way, this was a great day for using our London Passes. Not only did we get free admission to all of the places mentioned above, but we also got front of the line access. For the Tower, this meant bypassing the ticket purchase line and the ticket entrance line. Definitely a great deal today.
Day 7 turned out to be another beautiful day in London - if you were following the weather reports you would have read that Britain was having one of the wettest and stormiest summers on record - worries about the upcoming Olympics abound. We managed to be in town for the one amazing week. While Toronto sweltered in 40+ humidity we were enjoying mid twenties and sunny - go figure !
This was a perfect day for walking and so we set out to go all the way to Primrose Hill, the highest point in London. We made our way to Regent's Park and were amazed at the size of it. Passing one cricket pitch after another, several soccer fields, lots of picnic areas and a zoo! Eventually we made it to the ascent for Primrose Hill.
As we were slowly ascending, I was beginning to question the value of this excursion. We had been walking on a slow incline for some time and it didn't look like we were achieving any elevation. I was really wondering just what kind of view we could really expect and perhaps we should just abort and head back. However, I recalled my friend's insistence that this would be worth it and he had lived in London for several years, so we forged ahead. At last, we reached the top, and were suddenly and surprisingly presented with the most amazing view of London. The angle of the approach completely hid the sense of what was to come. It was definitely worth the trip and it took us a while to pry the kids away as they were really loving the view.
Final stop in the park was the London Zoo. A little pricey for our short visit, however included in the London Pass and priority entry, so we just walked right in. The acquarium exhibit and penguin area were really cool. The butterfly exhibit was good, but pales in comparison to Niagara on the Lake. If you don't have a pass and don't intend to spend a day in the Zoo with young children, I wouldn't recommend this stop from a value for money perspective.
After a little more walking we found our tube stop and the kids and I headed back to the hotel, while dad went on to spend an hour in the Tate Britain museum. We were done, him almost.
Day 8 we were up very early for the flight home. Left a little early to provide extra time to stop in at the duty rebate desk, which you have to do before you check in (in case they want to verify that you have actually packed the merchandise you purchased). Despite a hefty charge for processing the duty rebate, we were still looking forward to a decent refund, so it was worth the effort.
Overall, this was a great trip. We definitely saw a lot in the short time we were in London and everyone is keen to go back again soon. The Citidines Trafalgar Square was a great apart-hotel (kitchenette, two rooms, complimentary coffee and hot chocolate, free wi-fi), ideally situated for an intense London experience. I also recommend the "Pret a Manger" for quick meals with fresh, quality ingredients at reasonable prices and lots of choice.