Italy: Northern Delights the Easy Way - Day 17: Homeward Bound

So ready to go home after 17 days, we packed a lot in and learned a few tricks along the way. Leave yourself lots of time for the trains, delays and cancellations are routine. Load the train app to your device so you can look up the stops to anticipate yours. Learn to use the train ticket kiosks - way faster. Treat yourself to gelato every day - it’s worth it. Navigate around the cities via the piazzas vs the streets - it’s easier and they’re well marked. Don’t be afraid to ask for help or directions - everyone is eager to help.

Italy: Northern Delights the Easy Way - Day 16: Venice

Hopping on a high speed train, travelling at over 300 km/hr, we did the round trip 2 1/2 hour trip to Venice. We didn’t have enough time for a leisurely gondola ride so we took the water bus to Piazza San Marco and randomly wandered our way back to the train station, attempting to hit some of the notable piazzas along the way. The streets are fascinating and we did most of our shopping here, picking up a number of items made with Murano glass - beautiful!

Italy: Northern Delights the Easy Way - Day 15: Milan

Back to Milan for an afternoon with a wander down a “bohemian” street (Via Brera) and a visit to the Pinacoteca Di Brera, which was surprisingly crowded, followed by a delicious dinner near the Duomo.

Italy: Northern Delights the Easy Way - Days 12 to 14: Torino

Yet another perspective of Italy - Torino is a very modern city with a very fashionable aesthetic. Just loving it here - great food, gelato, well organized streets and wide thoroughfares, lots of amazing architecture everywhere you look, definitely living up to its rep as a design centre. Our fabulous boutique hotel, Andalesia, is close to an amazing gelato place and fabulous pizzeria.

We have explored many wonderful piazzas, mostly by following Via Roma, Via Po and parallel streets. We spent over two hours in the botanical gardens, with the highlight being the medieval city - we actually felt as though we were in King Arthur’s time. And of course, the shopping is plentiful in this city.

We actually also fit in a few museums - the Egyptian one, with a huge and fascinating collection of Egyptian artifacts and sarcophagus, and the Museum of Cinema, with a rooftop observatory providing panoramic views of the city, and we could easily have spent more than the 2 hours we had available to explore this museum. True to Torino’s reputation as the design centre of Italy, the museums are amazing.

Italy: Northern Delights the Easy Way - Days 10 & 11: Genoa

We lost half a day for sightseeing due to another lengthy train delay. Halfway to Genoa, as we were passing through a tunnel, our train stopped. We had to wait over two hours for a replacement engine and most of that was in the dark, as our car lights went out, with the temperature rising. 

Notwithstanding, we still managed to fit in almost all we wanted to see in one day - fortunately our goals for this trip are very light, in keeping with the laid back tenor we planned. We decided to head to the Aquarium first, when the line-up was minimal (unlike when we came out), enjoying a lovely walk along the boardwalk to get there. The aquarium is absolutely a must see. It is really well laid out, with a very large collection of sea creatures, including some very unique and interesting ones. We spent over two hours browsing the exhibits.

Heading into town from this point took us on a good path for the most notable piazzas and buildings. A light lunch at a cafe in a square, marvelling at the architecture and enjoying music by buskers was a great way to start our walking tour. The best areas to visit include Piazza De Ferrari, the Cathedral of San Lorenzo and Via Garibaldi, if you have only an afternoon to wander. Just marvelling at the structure of the streets (very hilly) and hidden architectural gems is a highlight.

Italy: Northern Delights the Easy Way - Days 8 & 9: Lucca & Pisa

Choosing to stay in Lucca, with a day trip to Pisa, could perhaps have been done the other way around more efficiently from a train schedule perspective, but we enjoyed our dinners in the old city of Lucca.

Arriving early in the day we were able to see all of the highlights within the old walled city in Lucca and had a lovely dinner at Madame Butterfly, which we chose because it was packed, so clearly a favourite. It was lovely to wander the streets, coming upon different interesting buildings as we entered a new piazza. One corner of the area was converted to a large bandstand for the many well known artists appearing as part of an annual music festival, with performances throughout July and August. You may want to check out the dates,  either to purchase a ticket, listen to the music outside the bandstand for free (find a table early) or avoid the area at that time.

Planning a day trip to PISA, we took a bus from the front of our hotel, getting off at the tower square - pretty much door to door service. After seeing this iconic image in so many movies and photographs it was none the less impressive despite the familiarity. The tower was magnificent, as were the surrounding buildings and cathedral. After visiting this area for a while and watching the many tourists taking pictures “holding up the tower”, we climbed up to the top of the wall surrounding this section of the city and commenced what was a fairly long walk, with lovely views. Climbing back down near the city centre we took a leisurely stroll towards the train station, stopping in several piazzas for the architecture and taking a break for lunch along the way on a patio at one of the many pizzerias. Then we hopped on the train back to Lucca, for a rest and another wonderful meal in the old city. Quite a lovely 2 days.

Italy: Northern Delights the Easy Way - Days 5 - 7: Florence

We have really settled into Florence. The curving streets have made it a challenge to follow a map and we have been turned around many times. However, we discovered many interesting shops and sights we might not have seen had we been able to follow the map. Breakfast at our lovely hotel, Mia Cara, less than a 5 min walk from the train station, was followed by a morning stroll through the streets searching out the highlights. A late lunch at one of the many, many pizzerias was followed by a siesta in our room. Back out late afternoon for another try at finding specific sites and then dinner by the Duomo or on the street of our hotel, Via Fuenza, where we were never disappointed. After an hour relaxing in the room we went back to the corner for a late night treat at our favourite gelato place, Gelati del Bondi.

Over the course of two days we were able to eventually find all of the places we had marked to see and many others we just happened upon. Florence is such a beautiful city we very much enjoyed just wandering the streets, so getting lost was not a bother. Our favourite shop was Signum on Borge dei Greci 40R, with lots of beautiful notebooks, library sculptures and other stationery. A delightful little shop.

Unfortunately we discovered a surprise train strike was to take place the next day, when we were scheduled to depart. Rather than face the crowds and chaos at the train station, since it was unclear what would be running, we decided to take a taxi to Lucca. However, our hotel concierge offered to drive us, at a lower rate. While still pricey, given the challenges we have had with the trains and finding our hotel upon arrival for our earlier stops, we felt we deserved this break.

Italy: Northern Delights the Easy Way - Days 2 to 4: Crema

Enroute to Crema we experienced the notorious unreliability of the train system, as our first train was cancelled and the next was 40 min late. Reflecting this reality, train tickets are good for 6 hours and most trains seem to run every hour, so not a major problem.

Crema is our first stop in Italy and lived up to our expectations. Our B&B host assured us that it was a very typical Italian town and would give us the opportunity to experience how the average Italian lives. A number of people gingerly enquired as to whether our visit was prompted by the film “Call Me By Your Name” and we met one of the extras on the train, as we asked for help to get ohh at the right stop - there were no announcements to upcoming stops, the stations were not well marked and the train stopped only briefly. It is a good idea to know how long your trip will be so you don’t miss your stop - our detailed draft itinerary was very helpful in this regard.

Our apartment was lovely, with a large living/dining area and a loft bedroom looking out to the Duomo. A large breakfast of breads, yoghurt, fruits, cereals and coffee was delivered to our door each morning. We spent two days leisurely exploring the town, finding the movie sights, visiting other longstanding buildings and castles and relaxing with coffee and gelato whenever the mood took us. There are several great restaurants, serving local dishes, although not always open and even a fantastic burger place, if you want a break from pasta and pizza.

Italy: Northern Delights the Easy Way - Day 1: Milan

We walked from the Milan Centrale train station to our hotel, to take in the streetscape and had a lovely lunch at a cafe along the way. It is light out late so we went for a walk to the Duomo to marvel at the huge cathedral and then have dinner on a patio in the square. I am absolutely amazed at the shopping - street after street of brand name and designer stores and everyone is shopping, with men and women alike toting several shopping bags.

We stayed at Montenapoleone Suites, which is very nice but a bit of a walk from the train station and the street is not well marked on the map we picked up at the train station. However, it is close to the Duomo and there is a grocery store at the foot of the street, handy for stocking up on snacks, water and fruit, or to put together a light Italian lunch with fresh bread and meats.

Italy: Northern Delights the Easy Way - Arrival

The main purpose of our trip to Italy is to visit the town where much of the filming of “Call Me By Your Name” was done, as we were quite taken by the ambiance of the town and countryside. Since we were going all the way there, it obviously made sense to add in some other sightseeing along the way. But we wanted a relaxing trip so we decided to stay in the north and pick just a handful of cities that we would leisurely visit, not worrying about seeing all top ten sights and museums, but to explore by just wandering and allowing lots of time to savour coffee, gelato and meals. So, despite being at the peak of tourist season, we are hoping our way will save us long line-ups, and we are OK with missing some real treasures.

Flying into Milan, we had the rest of the day to relax, have a nap and get to bed early to make up for the lack of sleep on the overnight flight. It was quite easy to take the train from the airport and, given it is quite far out, we saved a very hefty cab fare. Even better, the larger hotels have shuttles, but you need to contact your hotel in advance to find out what time they will be picking up. 

Fringe 2018 - Compulsion

Another twisted love story, set to music. Awesome show with great score and stellar performances.

Mirvish - The King and I

What a fantastic show. The entire cast was amazing. The leads, choreography and sets perfectly captured the essence of the film. 

Fringe 2018 - Movin' Melvin

This autobiographical story from a song and dance man was a lovely journey back in time to the music and dance from the fifties to the turn of the century. An entertaining and engaging performer. 

Fringe 2018 - 25

The two actors were great in executing the creative and fluid costume and character changes. While I mostly enjoyed the intriguing story, sadly I feel as thought I missed part of the story as it was incoherent in some of the connections.

Fringe 2018 - Generally Hospital

Clearly an audience favourite, this sketch comedy troupe lampooned a series of hospital experiences we can all relate to. Very well done!

Fringe 2018 - Tinder in the Toilet

Crazy rap group with great beats and a variety of funny autobiographical (?) stories

Fringe 2108 - Rage Against the Inferno

It seems you may have to be familiar with Dante's Inferno to understand the dream sequences, but this was a very strong cast and I enjoyed those parts of the performance that I got ......

Fringe 2018 - Anywhere

So if you've ever wondered about the risks of bunking with a stranger, this play may put you off Air B&B. A stellar two person performance that will keep you in suspense as the story twists and turns.

Fringe 2018 - The Ding Dong Girls

A great performance about a drag musical triple threat group was somewhat marred by the uneven delivery of the narrator. 

Fringe 2018 - Be a Good Girl

One woman cathartic show about her journey to be less submissive and accepting of bad behaviour. Accompanied by creative visuals and a great original musical score.

Fringe 2018 - Entrances and Exits

I am not usually a fan of improv but this was really well done. Two perspectives, tied together by entrances and exits, demonstrated the prowess of this troupe.

Fringe 2018 - High School Symphony

A bit juvanile, the story of bullying and retribution didn't really resonate. I'm not a fan of jazz, but the ensemble seemed to be talented.

Fringe 2108 - Flute Loops

Charming science lesson about the physics if music. Amazing control over complex dialogue. Fun and musical!

Fringe 2018 - Space Hippo

While generally a fan of shadow puppetry I found this story, with the Star Wars and other sci-fi influences, not to my taste. The musical accompaniment was very enjoyable though.

Fringe 2018 - Morro and Jasp: Save the Date

One of the Fringe highlights for me is Morro and Jasp. Turning everyday events on their side, you never know quite what to expect, but it will be a good time.

Fringe 2018 - Sum: A Shadow Puppet Reading

An intriguing and philosophical commentary on the afterlife. Accompanied by charming shadow puppetry and verbal sound effects.

Fringe 2018 - Fallsview to a Kill

The improv was a little lame, which may be due to the audience or the set-up, but "M" was amazing.

Fringe 2018 - The Two of Us

Interesting concept, brilliantly executed. A love story with a twist and some comedic moments. We enjoyed it.

Fringe 2018 - Police Cops in Space

Riotous fun, this three man troupe kept the audience in stitches the entire show. With very creative use of props and frequent ad-libbing, it was unexpected and highly entertaining, a clear audience favourite.

Fringe 2018 - Paradise Lost

Clever use of minimal props and video to support puppets accompanying the prose of Adam and Eve's exit from Paradise. A phenomenal performance.

Fringe 2018 - The Girl in the Photograph

Life is complex and messy and sometimes it's really hard to do the right thing to protect ourselves and others. Great performance.

Fringe 2018 - One Small Step

Very talented cast of young and emerging artists. This was a fun and engaging musical with great songs, choreography and comic relief. Highly recommended.

Fringe 2018 - Wagon Play

Well, OK, that was pretty wack. An hour with a cult is what it felt like.

Fringe 2018 - One Small Step

Very talented cast of young and emerging artists. This was a fun and engaging musical with great songs, choreography and comic relief. Highly recommended.

Fringe 2108 - Anatomy of a Dancer

High energy, highly engaging Gene Kelly dance show, loosely chronicling his career. Despite some minor wardrobe malfunctions and a few missteps, I absolutely loved this show.

Fringe 2018 - Fine China

A little disappointing, as the story was a familiar one we have heard many times - there was no unique angle or presentation. Also, while the gestures of the actors were authentic, their dialogue was delivered in a wooden fashion, lacking in depth and emotion.